No special blade for cement boards needed, just run the blade a bunch of times.

You can use the saw, but it may make a rough cut if it's dull and may vibrate which may not give you straight cut. The saw could get damaged as well, it is not designed to shed the cement dust which can get drawn into motor. Just a few cuts probably won't do any real damage.

I'd just score it a bunch of times with knife.

That's going to be most flexible. Run a 100 amp sub panel which should clear all your needs and allow for some extra power should need arise.

Be sure to match wire and connections with correct materials.

If you do it with only 1 set of wires, you will mess up charger later if the single gang plug is used at same time.

Run the amp rating wire you want for charger, and run a separate 12 ga wire on separate breaker for plug.

You may want to research the ev charger as they are beginning to offer larger amp systems for quicker charging.

This is way to go

No it's not going to hold the weight over time. Looks like that box is on joist. You can use if IF you run proper size screws for fan weight thru the mounting plate, thru box and into wood, so that the mounting plate is fastened to wood.

They have boxes for ceiling fans that are shaped to go over joist, but it will be centered on the joist and I cannot tell from picture if that what you have. If it is you can just replace the box.

You could get a Mason bag (kind of like a pastry bag for frosting) and use mortar to fill gap. Tap mounding and brick to give nice clean straight finish.

Use some tape to get straight clean lines. Keep it tighter to joint. The thin extended edges will not hold up to normal use a cleaning. The tape should be removed before caulk sets, but wipe it with finger dipped in mineral spirits. They have some tools for getting nice finishes that work well.

You did not mix it well.

Remove all mulch.

Get some chicken wire and lay that down on dirt before gravel. Attatch the chicken wire to the edge of your shed frame. This will keep vermin out of shed, otherwise it will be the home to something.

Rent or buy a grinder and get a diamond blade. Use that to cut and dig out old mortar. This is a very handy item combo to own for lots of house repairs.

up new mortar and pushing it into the joint is not to difficult. Need to get the proper tools. It's a doable DIY. Cover everything under it and have water a rag and brush to wipe brick before mortar sets (the face of the brick will get some on it, and if left to dry it's a big pain to remove.)

Need to see more, but your underlayment looks like real tile. If it's mostly loose, you would have to remove it and decide what you want as a finish floor there.

The brick repair is grind out mortar and tuck point (replace) it. It's odd spot to crack, above lintel. Usually the cracked is at the edge of a lintel.

if you get prehung door that fits, you could drill holes thru frame into concrete, use anchor into concrete and attach the door that way. It'll be tough to do and keep plumb.

Yes use green board on the ceiling. Yes you need vapor barrier between drywall and insulation. Don't put another vapor barrier between insulation and attic.

new well can often stir up sediment and that can get stuck in aerators and sometimes in valves. I'd pull valve out and check to see if any debris stuck in it...flush it out.

the hotwater heater should have a faucet at bottom. Hook a hose up to that and run it into a drain or outside. Open and leave open for 3-5 min

you own or rent?

yes should block area off from rest of house, tape off heat ducts and cold air return as well. If you get a spray bottle and wet down drywall as you go it will greatly reduce dust. Spray cracks as its removed, backside. I kind of doubt asbestos would be there, but that right as laws were changing.

There is a foil bubble wrap insulation made for HVAC primarily, but if you remove insulation from around your pipes and the cover the pipe with the foil bubble wrap, then put back your insulation on top of bubble wrap, it should stop that freezing from happening.

Big issue when water pipes are in unconditional spaces is getting covered all around with insulation. You want the pipe to conditioned space with no insulation, and then heavy insulation between pipes and unconditional space.

Don't remove vapor barrier from ceiling or place some plastic on top of ceiling before everything else.

And putting heat wires/tape on pipes under insulation is a horrible idea. Heat wire should be accessible and regularly inspected. If it's under insulation and shorts, you will have a bad situation.

Use some caulking around edges to help grab the box inplace with new box. Hopefully you get one that has the small lip. You could also use spray foam to help set it...but that can make a real mess of things if not careful.

As others have said the issue you might have is where your light fixture attaches to the electric box. If it has the round washer type flange that attaches to box and then screw from light connect to the washer flange, you should have play to rotate new box to get good grab. If the light attaches directly to box, you may have to get creative on repair.

Your lights and or dimmer are reacting to the common neutral. LED lights are very sensitive to the dimmer. Many are electronic and common neutral can cause issues.

No pic showing so just basic overview. Can test with reg incandescent light to see if still get flicker. If no, then your fan may need its own independent power....no shared neutral.

You said you have red/black wire setup...do they have their own circuit? (breaker). Guessing no and that can be a source of issue as well.

Older house sometimes have no ground wire...bare copper/green. You can leave the ground unconnected.

I recommend the same. Rust stain might be mold as well. When you select your grout for new tile, most manufactures make matching caulk.

Span is support to support But it is different for decks depending on the distance between joists, the type of wood used (treated wood can be made of several species depending on where you live), and is reduced in northern areas that get heavy snow loads.

Your deck blocks should be under your beams (dbl 2x6) and the middle deck blocks would need a beam. Supporting 1 joist midway, but not the next one is not proper.

If you rent, report it to maintenance. That's a safety issue.

If you own, the you will want to buy a manual planer if doing it by hand. That will be much easier than sand paper.

You can also try a washer, a penny, cardboard, paper...and put between frame and hinge to slightly tip door. Depends on where it rubs. if top rubs, you can add something to top hinge. if top side rubs, then bottom hinge. You need to have some space between door and frame on the other side of the top corner

picture helps

Electrician best recommendation

Check switches that control lights. Check GFCI for any loose wires, but be careful if you find a wire not connected in GFCI box...never know what someone else did. Electrician can fix and make sure not a hazzard

You can also screw through the sides of dishwasher into cabinets. Be careful of screw length, but most dishwashers have built in spots to do this. Some behind a trim plug.

If top is only option, epoxy wood filler works great just predrill after epoxy sets. If you have dishwasher out, consider sealing the bottom of counter above dishwasher. Many dishwashers vent to the top and that may have softened the pressed wood that the screw was in.