Minor nitpick, it's a rotary hammer, not a hammer drill.

Rotary hammer uses a special sliding bit called a SDS bit that moves back and forth. Only the bit moves. It also has a mode where it can hammer without spinning and use chisel bits for demolition.

Hammer drill uses a normal masonry bit in an adjustable chuck and has a mechanism in it to vibrate the entire chuck back and forth

Rotary hammer is really what you want for anything beyond just doing a couple 1/8" holes. Having both, a rotary hammer can do a 1/2" hole in a granite boulder faster than a hammer drill can do a 5/32" hole in brick.

Both are colloquially called "hammer drills" but you've got to make sure it's actually a rotary hammer and uses a SDS bit.

Hm, that's a decent idea. 3/4 T&G plywood cut into 2 ft x 4 ft strips and nailed down with the joints over the joists would be quite easy to install.

Any thoughts on OSB vs real plywood?

>WTAF would tire pressure have to do with anything?

The contact patch of a tire is the weight of the vehicle divided four divided by the tire pressure. So if you're calculating a maximum loading it's kind of important. I don't have any doubts of the floor's ability to support the weight of the car if it was evenly distributed over 280 sq ft. But it's not, it's distributed over four 0.2 sq ft contact patches each totaling about 1,000 lbs. So obviously the worst case scenario is the weight of the tire right in the middle ~2" of a 14.5" unsupported span of 5/8" plywood causing the plywood to crack. The compressive strength of wood is on the order of 1 ksi so I'm not worried about the 4x4 skids or even about the joist compression (since each 2x4 joist has about 5 sq in of contact to the skid). I have struggled to find good resources on plywood strength over short distances with very concentrated loads so that's why I'm asking for advice.

Would you rather someone drop 100 lbs bag of feathers or 100 lb of water on your head? I know which I'd prefer.

There's no buckling or sag, but I think my car is a fair bit heavier (and higher tire pressure) than what the previous owner was parking.

The Advantech seems pretty reasonable for 9 sheets, and certainly easier to put down a second floor than to try to cut up the old one.

I might go at it with a pry bar and see how easy the current floor panels come up. I like the idea of prying them up for the 4x4 sleepers on top of the skids but if they're a pain in the ass to get up then IDK, maybe it's better to cut out slots with a circular saw set to 5/8" depth. Or perhaps only add sleepers in the specific joist bays where the car would be parked, not all of them?

>northern aggression

Remind me, who shot first?

Cope, traitors

It was wild watching World Champs back in the mid 2010s just knowing Sagan was going to find a way to do it. I think in 2017 in Norway there were some issues with the camera feeds and it blanked out near the end. Went from "there's a group and it's anyone's race" to "and it's Sagan with the three-peat" like when low budget action movies cut out the violence to save special effects budget and maintain a PG-13 rating.

He did have a knack for being able to get in the right place with the right time and it was fun back in the day watching Quickstep set up a big leadout train for Kittel, only for Sagan to ride it too and pop him at the line.

Not super surprising, but definitely the end of an area.

If you're not following cycling closely, Sagan was The Guy from 2012-2018 and also managed to singlehandedly form a team around him (Bora Hansgrohe, which was a second-tier team he joined, brought in a bunch of new riders and sponsors, and got promoted to the top tier of pro cycling). By 2020 he was no longer the best rider on his own team, let alone the world, and he has been quietly fading out by signing with a different second-tier team. It's important to be on a top tier team because they get automatic invites to all the big races, whereas the second tier teams only sometimes get invited (and yes, that's a rabbithole of controversy with accusations that race organizers are biased towards second-tier teams, or that second-tier teams will sign declining superstars just to try to get invites)

Hopefully it will be an exciting Olympics and a way for him to go out on top.

If you've got room, an expansion tank would solve both problems, RO filters are quite slow so a lot come with 3 gallon white expansion tanks that fill up with RO water then give you fast flow and great pressure when you're actually using it.

That seems way more hassle than just going up to the next size up lag bolt

Why/how would you put a washer in the head end of a carraige bolt? The whole point of a carraige point is not to

Por que no los dos?

Something like this is what I use when I want the strength of a lag bolt but the convenience of a deck screw.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/FastenMaster-0-x-2-7-8-in-Black-Ecoat-Flat-Head-Interior-Exterior-Structural-Wood-Screws-50-Count/3295058

> How do these people not notice?

LCD instrument clusters light up whether it's day or night out, and daytime running lights provide a modicum of forward illumination. So it's a lot easier for people to not realize it than it was 25 years ago when having your lights off meant you couldn't see shit and your instrument cluster was dark

Coffee is a drink made from the roasted seed of a plant.

Espresso is a subset of coffee. Drip coffee, Turkish coffee, cold brew coffee, French press coffee, Japanese ice drip coffee, all are different preparation methods. There's tons of different combinations of time, pressure, and temperature that can produce coffee.

... have optical heart rate and pulse oximeter sensors which are totally different from blood pressure

Many light fixtures are rated as junction boxes, meaning you route the Romex directly into the fixture and make the connections inside the fixture.

Depends. More basic models have a little slide out drawer to catch it, like a dehumidifier. You just empty it into a sink. The nicer ones have a pump and can be plumbed into a drain.

A shitload more than a European version

The main thing that a newer vented dryer does is have a moisture sensor to turn it off at exactly the right time.

The actual mechanism isn't drastically different in efficiency - it's wire heating element coils that warm up air then it gets blown over the clothes and exhausted outside.

To get a meaningful change in efficiency, you need to go to a ventless. Ventless is like an enclosed dehumidifier, it pulls the moisture out of the air as it recirculates over the clothes. It doesn't get as hot but it uses a lot less energy. Plus since you're not blowing air outdoors, you're not also increasing the load on your HVAC system as fresh outdoor air gets sucked in.

Interestingly, a modern high efficiency washer does more for reducing dryer energy use than a modern high efficiency dryer. Those washing machines have more powerful spin cycles and the clothes come out with less moisture for the dryer to deal with.