Ever tried to roll off some highs?

Since the receptacle is friction fit, it will wear out and will be wobbly in a year of active use. It will hold itself with the latch and will not lose signal, but not very sturdy.

I have been using both neutrik and switchcraft connectors, 100% original. Thay may seem good for a long time at home, but when used in a studio environment, they wear out quite fast.

Ahahahah:) Yes, but tactility is also important for me, hence, my other hobbies are mechanical keyboards, fountain pens, and woodworking

Yes, it may be stuck hard, but the tactile feel of insertion and pulling out is very unpleasant. It is click-clack with 6.3 and all of the jacks with the ball end. Friction fit plugs - nah. And the fixator doesn't help either.

6.3 is much smoother imo. XLR doesn't have a tactile snap and doesn't feel as secure as jacks (wobbly, especially when used for a long time)

I love coiled cables

Leave him alone and don't be anal about it.

I would be a pair of headphones with fm radio because I have asd.

The person who you have learned that from clearly made it up.

Then why would you even consider telling that anything is bright if you can take off the peak in a second?

Do you know about EQ?

It's okay if it's a TV, but if this is a computer, then I will spam you with screenshot app links

I'm glad I have my scarlett solo.

Hunting is cringe if you can go to a supermarket

Edit: Whoever is downvoting me is even cringier.

None of the browns that I've tried were even remotely comparable in tactility to the springs.

And I would much prefer the linear switches anyway (speaking of cherry-style switches), so I wouldn't bother with them at all.

YMMV but yeah, it was very underwhelming but seemed like a good idea at first.

You can read my 2 last big comments (in the profile). Hope it'll be clear:)

You seem to have missed my points.

I was talking about the difference between amplifiers, not the filters and balanced inputs.

I can assume that there's no completely "clean" option.

What?

There's dsp/filter in that amp.

What I mean is if you're hearing a difference between the amps, you're either strongly believe that this difference exists (placebo) or there's filtering going on.

If the sound is less boomy and more tighter, then there's probably a filter at around 100-300 Hz region.

If you will tone down that frequency range, you will have less "dirt" in the sound, especially in rock and metal where there is a lot of distorted guitars and basses. Don't overdo it because you'll end up with no kick in the lower register.

I'm amazed at how many people are buying into that bullshit. Like I'm not an engineer and my grades weren't good at school, but I can smell bullshit right away.

There isn't such thing as voltage swings being abrupt or smooth. The amplifier amplifies the signal that is fed to it.

If you run it within the headroom range, then it will be the same. If you will overdrive the amp, it will compress and sag. In more extreme cases you will be able to hear audible distortion (like in guitar amps).

If the source sounds loud enough at 80% of the volume, then you don't need an amp. If it's lacking in volume and you crank it full, then it's probably a time to buy an amp.

You will not hear a difference in a blind test between a hi-end and budget amplifier unless there's some DSP or filtering involved. If you have any of those expensive amps, you can sell them right now unless you're emotionally attached to them and make you feel good.

That's nonsense.

I mean the explanation is so badly out of touch, that it will be a complete bullshit for anyone remotely understanding the principles of amplification.