I did the same exact thing to the top half of a shower wall. The adhesive and the drywall came in very, very similar plastic buckets. "I don't remember the tile adhesive being this lightly colored..........oh for F's sake."
Take them down, rinse them off and do it right.

Unfaced because of moisture concerns. Faced insulation acts a a vapor barrier and generally faces the warm side. Unfaced will let the moisture that does get through even after you go through the effort of sealing up the cracks migrate from hot to cold. Otherwise you can run into mold issues. Even if you get faced insulation and put the face up next to the floor, any moisture that gets through is now trapped between the floor and the insulation.

The basics.

• Use a plastic vapor barrier to keep moisture from coming up from the ground.
• If you can, add vents to the other side of the crawlspace. This will help keep moisture at bay.
• Seal all the perforations between the conditioned space and the crawlspace. This will help with air and moisture exfiltration.
• Insulate your plumbing as the heat coming from the house will be reduced, so the risk of a frozen pipe goes up. Yes, even in Georgia.
• Use R30 unfaced batts/rolls as they will fit between your floor joists and the added cost is worth the extra R value. You can use rigid wires designed to fit between joists to keep the insulation up close to the subfloor.