aZamaryk

aZamaryk t1_j68fxcs wrote

Haha, went to local college in georgia usa and did some studies with this lady in the math lab. After some time I asker her if she was British and she explained to me that she was american in a car accident following a short coma. She said when she woke up she was speaking like this, but she never noticed it until all her family kept asking her why she was speaking with a British accent. She said it felt natural and she couldn't tell the difference.

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aZamaryk t1_j2sts7g wrote

Never thought playing ball in basement is good idea. When a ball busts a pipe you might find yourself scrambling to shut off the water to prevent a full on flood. Put up some temporary plywood sheets in places of concern. You can suspend sheets lower if need be for clearance of ducts etc. You can extend 2x4s down to hang sheets.

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aZamaryk t1_j244i15 wrote

Nows the time to scrape off those popcorn ceilings if you want them gone. Sounds like the edges are prepped for crown molding. You can spritz popcorn with water bottle wetting it thoroughly then scrape off with putty knife. It makes a bit of a mess, but is pretty easy. Just sand flat after, repair defects, prime then paint. The ceiling paint should be fine, but I would use primer on new surfaces with it. The emerald has primer in formulation and will go on fine on the painted walls. On new surfaces I'd still use primer with any paint. It promotes adhesion and blocks stains to give a much better finish. The prep work is always most important.

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aZamaryk t1_j2075du wrote

Buy one of those plastic discharge adapters and just screw it against the vent. You should have 2x4s around the eaves vent and should be able to just fasten it on an edge. Clamp or zip tie hose in place. Or if money is that tight you can always just screw the hose itself to the wood. Use washer to give more holding strength. A washer can be any flat item, piece of wood even.

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aZamaryk t1_j206u01 wrote

Yes, I have actually. Transitions are just covers for the required gap at ends. You will need one if you change direction of installation from room to room, run up against another type of floor, or just doing single room. The most issues stem from incorrect installation due to lacking expansion gaps, poor assembly by not locking planks correctly or nailing/caulking down sections of the floating floor. If you install the underlayment correctly and follow all guidelines for end gaps, including at doorways, dont nail or caulk any portions of floor down, you can run a whole house without a single transition without any issues. Also, different manufactures have different recommendation and I would not use a product that said you had to use transitions between all rooms, and have yet to see one that specifically requires this.

Your friends floor is likely an issue with no end gap allowances for expansion. Some contractors will install floor without pulling up baseboards to cut their costs and try to cover end gaps with shoe molding. Most floors require at least 3/8 expansion gap against any hard surface.

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aZamaryk t1_j1zkyap wrote

Can you run it to a soffit and at least get majority of the air out? Soffits should be open to outside for venting. You could possibly bury it in the blown insulation and just expose the end to soffit vent. Its not ideal, but it might help.

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aZamaryk t1_j1zbh58 wrote

There should be no transition between rooms when doing same floating floor throughout. Since you have a transition the best you can do now is to clean up all the caulk and fasten the transition directly to your subfloor. I would recommend finishing nails in center, so that nails don't hit the actual floor planks. You want that transition to be fastened without nailing the floor. There is no need to caulk any floating floor, so i would clean off as much if the caulk as i can. The second picture you should just trim out using a baseboard or even a 1x4 primed finish board then you can install quarter round or shoe moulding against the floor. Again, only nail trim to walls not the floor to keep the floating aspect. If you nail down floor with trim you might see some buckling/separation of planks as they expand/contract.

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