Add a pic OP. Framing in the ceiling is generally called joists. The answer to your question is depends. Do you need to cut the full width of the joist to place the fixture? More importantly, why are you installing recess can lighting instead of flat led panels in 2023? The joist in question probably only supports the drywall hanging from it. If you can get away with cutting only the bottom half out it will probably be fine.

There are 50

I would argue that the movement to stop prescription opiates has made the opiate epidemic worse, not better, so shouldn’t be considered “combatting the opiate epidemic”.

Can you refute anything I said? Or comment on the fact that opioid deaths and use are up even though prescriptions of opioids have become almost impossible to get for the last five or so years?

Eh, doctors knew, every one has known that opioids are addictive for hundreds of years. Are the Sacklers scum? You bet, but let’s not put all the blame on them. Vicodin used to be prescribed for minor injuries, as a kid I remember getting codeine cough syrup every winter, people with chronic pain were perpetually prescribed dilaudid, and somehow I’m to believe the “opioid crisis” was caused by OxyContin?

What a title! How on earth has prescribing less opioids considered “battling the opioid epidemic” when opioid use and overdoses are at all time highs?

Those are great for heavy loads but require pretty decent size holes, which can be difficult in old plaster walls. I have plaster and wood lathe construction walls and have had good luck pre-drilling with a 3/16 masonry bit on high speed with no hammer action, then using a course thread wood screw. If I don’t hit lathe going straight in I angle the screw a bit so I do.

Knock on it. Plaster is much more solid, like concrete. Also, a test hole somewhere inconspicuous is a good idea. The good news is looks like a small toggle bolt will work in that hole.

You’ve gotten a lot of advice, so this might get drowned out: you cannot replace AFCI or GFCI breakers with tandem ones that are not AF/GF. You have 4 single pole non-AF/GF breakers throughout the panel that you can replace with tandems. Since they are not next to each other it would require you to move around many breakers in order to get a 2 pole space. Not a big deal, but it will be the last circuit you ever add. Your best bet is to install a sub panel right next to your main panel, if you have room on the wall.

I doubt they’ve ever even pulled much over 100A. If they have a smart meter they can get their max load values from the power company.

I’m just gonna guess, you should check manufacturers recommendations, but I doubt the rubber flooring is meant to survive the elements. Between UV and freeze/thaw cycles many rubber products will fall apart when left outside. I also don’t think rubber flooring will remain “nonslip” when covered with snow and ice.

Metropolitan areas have hundreds of not thousands of trucks that drive less than 100 miles daily. I can see this being used for beer and grocery distribution

> that’s going to be filled with political agenda

What does that have to do with the quality of the song. Music, movies, even comic books, have always brought up current events and “political agendas”. They used to have to be much more coded about it to get distribution. The right has been making all that over the years too, not our fault they suck at it.

Yeah, I can’t do things half ass, so sometimes it’s better if I just don’t do it. I actually have started rewiring but I will have to leave the first floor overhead lighting, which isn’t much, as it’s not worth putting holes in the plaster ceiling.

Yes, sounds like a good installation. Also, wouldn’t bother changing the breaker.

Don’t look. I live in a 1911 built house and most everything in the walls and attic is knob and tube. What isn’t, was mostly done by 1950s and 70s handymen.

> So no one would frown upon stripping the jacket on the NMD 90 at the start of the conduit and running it like that which would be more flexible

By code, the sheathed cable should enter a box with a connector before being stripped back. Though I’ve seen it done plenty like you’re saying. The other thing to consider is that NM is not listed for use in wet environments and sunlight will degrade the outer sheathing. You want to limit the amount of it that’s exposed to the elements. If it were me, I’d poke the romex through the sill plate, directly into the back of a 6x6 pvc box mounted to the siding, strip it back, roll and tape up the white, and come out of the box with non-metallic liquid tite into the charger. One thing to keep in mind is that it’s almost impossible to keep water out when you put a hole in the top of a box. If you can, come out the side of the box with your liquid tite, or even better, the bottom. Also, drill a couple small holes in the bottom, so when water does get into the box, it can drain out.

> I know bending too tight can cause resistance to increase

The electricity won’t care. Too tight of a bend puts strain on the jacketing and insulation. I don’t think you need to worry about that though, you have to try pretty hard to overbend wire.

Well, no jurisdictions allow single conductors to be run outside of conduit/boxes. OP didn’t mention what type of #8 conductors would be used, so I assumed.

I’m an electrician and what you’re doing is perfectly fine, provided the wiring is in conduit from the junction box to the charger. Is the 6-3 already at the j-box location? Do you have to re-route it? Honestly, even better is to bring the romex into a j-box and split out the conductors long enough to make it to the charger, splices are weak points.

I am an electrician and this is not true, at all.