How should I raise the level of the floor on concrete in an enclosed porch?

Submitted by codenoggin t3_12050b5 in DIY

We have wanted to redo the tile floors in our enclosed porch for a while now.

We were planning on putting in a floating floor over the existing tile, but some of the tiles started to pop up because they were glued down to a layer of paint on the concrete.

So, now we're planning to pull up all of the tiles before replacing them with some click-in laminate.

However, I'm wondering how I should raise the floor to be level or near-level with the room entrance? It's about a 1 & 1/4 inches lower than the rest of the flooring.

Do you lay thick plywood across the entire room? Is there anything I should watch out for?

difference in floor height

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b3ta_max t1_jdfr77x wrote

Pour some self-levelling cement first. Maybe even two pours. Then a thinner cork layer/underlay for sound deadening, then your laminate.

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Material_Community18 t1_jdgf7vx wrote

This is a good answer (upvoted!) but self-levelers are not easy. For any sizable pour it takes multiple people, preparation, coordination, and skill. Correcting mistakes are difficult.

If the floor is already level but just needs to be raised 3/4” or so then some kind of plywood or cement board underlayment is easier to DIY.

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Enginerdad t1_jdhr568 wrote

I hear that. I think self leveler is such a cool product. But the one time I installed it in a very small bathroom project, was one of the most stressful things I've ever done. I only needed three bags, but mixing the three bags and getting it poured and squeegeed out in the 10 minutes it takes to set up too much to level itself anymore was awful. In the end I did end up with one small section that wasn't perfectly level, but I was able to deal with that. I'll never do even a small pour on my own again, and I definitely won't do a big pour at all. I don't have that many competent friends.

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QuadMedic21 t1_jdhq35o wrote

I just finished learning this mistake. 80sqft is not fun to remove with a sledgehammer.

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dewayneestes t1_jdk3zw5 wrote

We raised our lanai (this was in Honolulu) and enclosed it, had to raise the floor about 2 inches for it to match the rest of the living area. We hired some guys to do it.

8am Sunday a full sized cement truck pulls up and 11 Philippino guys gather, one of them was about 70 and his job was to crack open Heinekens.

They run the cement to the back of the house using a big half pipe and get the whole thing laid in about an hour. 2 guys stayed and watered it and kept it smooth as it set up. It was vey noisy, a helicopter flew over and circled for a bit, our neighbors were not thrilled.

Turns out there was a gigantic development burn built about a mile from us, the cement guys would skim loads and do peoples small projects on their way to the big development.

Far as I’m concerned we got an experienced crew to do a top notch job for a really good price.

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FirstForFun44 t1_jdiub1t wrote

I poured self leveler two days ago. It was easy enough except I used water from the tub and the second batch was slightly warmer so it set up WAY faster and I ended up having to angle grind a little. If I didn't do that i'd say it was easy, especially with two people.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdnvyno wrote

Thanks for the heads-up! Yeah, this isn't a tiny room so it might be out of the question for the scope of work I can take on at the moment. I like the idea of the cement board!

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codenoggin OP t1_jdft09n wrote

Thanks! That's incredibly helpful, I hadn't considered self-leveling cement. We were originally talking about a floating floor so I guess I was stuck on that idea.

So the self-leveling cement should bring the whole floor up to near-level with the rest of the house (minus the thickness of the cork and laminate)?

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mawktheone t1_jdgu7ro wrote

You could do well to combine two recommendations on the thread.

Put down a layer of duroroc or cement board, which will fill up a good chunk of the height for cheap. Then some self leveling compound for the remainder, which means a safer cheaper single 3/4 inch pour.

Then, instead of laminate, get wood effect tiles. Not much more expensive but totally waterproof

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Enginerdad t1_jdhrjdh wrote

3/4" is pushing the limit of a single pour, depending on the specific product you use. Also, that shit ain't cheap. I'd avoid using self leveler unless the floor is so out of flat/level that you can't address it with the Duroc and a mortar bed

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5degreenegativerake t1_jdg2fuc wrote

The ones I have used have a maximum thickness of 1” per pour. If the porch is sizable, that will take a whole lot of bags of self leveler but it will give you a near perfect substrate. It is a lot easier to get it level when you pour it in a higher thickness as it flows better. I would probably just do the 1” and then feather in the doorway over 4’ or so to make a smooth transition to the existing floor.

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FirstForFun44 t1_jdiui8n wrote

In that case a layer of cement and then a final sheet of leveler might be best.

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b3ta_max t1_jdfv891 wrote

That's correct, glad I could help! Good luck

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FirstForFun44 t1_jdiukcn wrote

Make sure you use COLD water. I poured two days ago. Learn from me.

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PrintError t1_jdgz295 wrote

I wouldn't raise it up to be completely level. If for some reason your patio floods, being an inch lower than the house can save your house. If it's level, the water will happily run right into your living room.

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truxie t1_jdh615g wrote

100% this. Plus it's pretty easy to make a threshold that covers a 1" height difference. Especially compared to raising the level of an entire floor.

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oskiller t1_jdhaxns wrote

That is what I was thinking. Going level could prove trouble down the road. Pretty much every exterior door I have even seen tends to be a tad bit above exterior level.

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PrintError t1_jdhwzf6 wrote

When I had my patio built, they were very clear with NOT raising my patio to be level with the house. I'm glad they didn't. Instead, they graded the concrete so any water drains out the farthest corner from the door.

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Halagad t1_jdjfn64 wrote

Just replaced the sub flooring in my kitchen due to this, porch was level with the floor. Contractors and inspectors all said lowering the deck should be on our list or it will happen again.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdnvn5u wrote

Yeah, that's a good consideration! I think I'll try to only raise it slighly with, concrete board or some cork, like some of the other suggestions. Takes the pressure off of trying to level it perfectly and maybe I can still have a cleaner looking threshold than the current toe-destroyer.

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age34act12 t1_jdfvvna wrote

Half inch concrete board Durock with thinset then floating floors will be really close to the mark.

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fangelo2 t1_jdg9fpx wrote

This would be much better than plywood which would be hard to fasten and keep flat.

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philosoph0r t1_jdh1r5v wrote

Thats why you frame up off existing for new sheathing

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Martian_Xenophile t1_jdi5tem wrote

But that’s quite a bit more time, labor, and money, for a less stable floor.

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philosoph0r t1_jdicksy wrote

Less stable? You know how to frame? Lol. Theyll be tying into existing supports. Nothings compromised

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Martian_Xenophile t1_jdkibh9 wrote

The existing floor is concrete, what supports? It’s a porch floor to be raised an inch. There’s not even a half inch of space for new supports under the sheathing. It makes no sense at all to frame and sheath a floor like that.

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philosoph0r t1_jdldjjz wrote

So you tie into the concrete with anchors? Act like youve done this before. Considering its only an inch or whatever furring strips should do just fine

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Martian_Xenophile t1_jdm5lwv wrote

Buy why would you go through that trouble unless you don’t know concrete and only know framing? I see no benefit. It’s not cheaper, nor quicker, nor easier. I suppose if you have physical issues lifting heavy durock and mortar bags, you might prefer working with lighter wood, or possibly you know a way to cheap out on it, but to me it’s not sensible. What I believe is the case, is that a framer wants the opportunity to flaunt their skills, having only a hammer and seeing all problems as nails.

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dmethvin t1_jdh92z3 wrote

My preferred solution for the underlayment as well. From there you could put Ditra and a heated tile floor in, which is so nice to take off the chill.

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unseen0000 t1_jdjgcn5 wrote

> floating floors

sorry to come in between. But what do you mean by a floating floor?

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VanCityGuy604 t1_jdjko62 wrote

Floating refers to the flooring material not being glued or nailed down

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unseen0000 t1_jdjla0o wrote

gotcha, ty!
What's the benefit of doing so compared to glueing / nailing it down?

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lejohanofNWC t1_jdjqjqo wrote

I may be wrong but part of it is that it’s super easy to install. You cut stuff to size and snap it together and you’re good. One benefit might be that not gluing or nailing gives the flooring material the ability to expand and contract without buckling (which is why you leave a gap at the edge of the room).

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KB-say t1_jdk4vrm wrote

You’re not wrong 😊

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lejohanofNWC t1_jdkjawt wrote

Oh that’s good, I’m going to install some floating floors for the first time this weekend so at least I’ve got those points down hahah.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdnwjxa wrote

This sounds like the way to go, thank you so much for the suggestion! Going to look into this more.

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Waikoloa60 t1_jdgu6b7 wrote

Minority opinion maybe: If the height difference is about an inch, it seems like a lot of work and expense to try to get it level.

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TheOneKnownAsMonk t1_jdic3q1 wrote

Nah I'm with you. Doesn't need to be level especially since they are being treated as different spaces with different flooring. Get it close with some durock or thick cork and use a transition strip at the door. Should still look clean.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdnwthk wrote

Yeah, sounds like trying to get it level is going to be a lot more work. I think if I can raise it up a little higher than it currently is, I can have a cleaner looking threshold at least.

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kcasper t1_jdh418s wrote

It depends on the situation.

I might consider the DRICORE subfloor system for areas like this. It insulates the concrete, making the room dryer. Can be shimmed effectively to get everything perfectly level. Far quicker than multiple layers of pouring and installing plywood. Although the underlayer should be vented or drained in some way. And you are paying for the benefits.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdnx5rf wrote

DRICORE sounds interesting, I'll have to check it out. There is an old drain on the outside wall, so I don't think that would be an issue.

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Kyanche t1_jdgimkt wrote

Ahhhhh these kill me in rental houses. I'll find a 1600sqft house and I'm like perfect! Then I look at pictures and it turns out it's a 1350sqft house with a big enclosed patio they're trying to sell as a bedroom. Oh hell naw. Covered patios are not bedrooms.

I agree with the self leveling cement. Plywood's gonna probably gather moisture like crazy.

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ButterPotatoHead t1_jdh9r6k wrote

Maybe not the answer you're looking for but if it were me, I'd rip up the existing tiles and re-tile it rather than using laminate. Part of it is that I like the look and feel of tiles and actually like installing them too.

I'd be ok with the the porch being a small step down from the main house than perfectly level. You can also get thicker tiles to close the gap a little.

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N5tp4nts t1_jdhdx7t wrote

FYI…. Self leveler is great but it doesn’t “self level” completely. You need the right roller to spread it out. Don’t just mix it and dump it out and expect a good result.

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ThatsALiveWire t1_jdi113j wrote

I've used self-leveler under a new floor but I wouldn't say it's super attractive to use for a finished look.

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Klaatu162 t1_jdhxk47 wrote

If I read correctly, you didn't say the porch was not level, you just wanted to bring it up by 1 1/4". If that's the case, I would use Durock over thin set on your base layer, then finish with a wood figured tile on thinset on top of the Durock. Follow Durock installation instructions with regards to gapping, tapping, etc. Work out the thickness' of all materials. Done this way, you will have two layers of thinset you can manipulate to achieve the exact height you want. Or, if you want a floating floor, then increase the initial layer of thinset.

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MoSChuin t1_jdiaheh wrote

Self leveling concrete. No cheap but you'll never have to mess around with it ever again.

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DistantOrganism t1_jdhi3e7 wrote

You mentioned it’s a porch so I automatically think it’s gonna get below freezing in there. Laminate flooring is intended for buildings that will have temperatures maintained between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Do otherwise at your own risk.

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codenoggin OP t1_jdwdon1 wrote

Thanks for the heads-up! I don't think it's ever dropped below 65, but I'll have to check our temperature sensor history to make sure. It's an old enclosed brick porch under the roof of the house and has AC/Heat, so it's pretty well insulated.

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DistantOrganism t1_jdwpcpy wrote

I have a cabin where extreme cold makes the vinyl flooring very brittle to the extent I can feel it break a little more with each step. It’s on my list for replacement. Sound like you should be safe at those temperatures and even somewhat less.

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grandroute t1_jdjmnhh wrote

don't use laminate outdoors, especially if it gets below freezing.. You be better off re tiling the porch with thicker tiling and a new layer of concrete.

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linnadawg t1_jdjmytq wrote

I don’t think you’d want to bring exterior concrete up to level with your house. Leave it where it’s at and do your exterior floor.

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gamereiker t1_jdi7ras wrote

Demolish the porch, excavate and repour the floor, rebuild the porch.

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philosoph0r t1_jdh1p27 wrote

Frame up a new subfloor off the existing

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fomoco94 t1_jdhlva7 wrote

For just one inch of height? Sounds a bit ludicrous to me.

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Jstepson t1_jdh6k02 wrote

Lay 2x4 pressure treated flat on existing concrete fasten with ramset or concrete screws that is inch and half to inch five eighths then add 5/8 to 3/4 plywood to get desired height the concrete screws are called tapcons, there are other cement fasteners just whatever works best.

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