Help needed with replacing a window

Submitted by Present-Substance-82 t3_119vq6m in DIY

Hi everybody,

I want to replace an old wooden window with something more durable. Preferably PVC.

Here is the current situation and 2 options I have thought of myself: https://imgur.com/a/BhsMHFv

The problem I can see coming up is the corners that have been taken out of the siding to accommodate the top en bottom drip edge. The wall is only 6cm thick so I don't have a lot of room to build a fancy structure.

I can order a PVC window with a 22mm edge around the sides but my guess is that that would not be enough to cover the holes. I can not find a window with a bigger list. Replacing part of the siding is not an option unfortunately.

The other option I can think of is ordering an inside the frame window without a lip and building a new wooden list/frame around it. I've included some examples of both in imgur as well.

Any wise thoughts on how I can best remodel this so it will last?

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Thanks in advance!

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Comments

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doranmauldin t1_j9oims3 wrote

You might try calling around to some window suppliers. There’s a chance you get someone on the line who has dealt with something like this before and they might end up making a suggestion that you didn’t think of.

Definitely let us know what solution you end up finding and good luck!

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grungemuffin t1_j9ogden wrote

You should leave the trim and replace the window. Avoid all these problems

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9ohlfd wrote

Well the leakage is coming from behind the trim so I'm afraid that I have to replace the trim one way or another. I thought might as well replace the window frame while I'm on it.

The damaged on the window frame is worst on the inside...

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oneeye3040 t1_j9pwra1 wrote

If you weren't having water issues you could buy an insert window and keep the old window jambs. You probably won't be able to get a cheap vinyl (pvc) in an insert, but in a clad window you can.

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The_camperdave t1_j9qf5wz wrote

> You should leave the trim and replace the window. Avoid all these problems

The advice I've always heard is to always do a "brick-to-brick" replacement. If the old window was leaking, the damage will be hidden beneath the trim. Replacing just the window means that the leak is still there. A brick-to-brick replacement gives you the opportunity to repair any damage that may have occurred.

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MeatWhorenado t1_j9ootbp wrote

I wouldn't hesitate and just go with option two. I think that gives you the best chance for a leak free window and avoids some of the other issues, even if the work and cost are a little more.

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RickMantina t1_j9p840o wrote

I’ve been dealing with incorrectly installed windows in my house. The house is stucco, and the building paper which provides the water proofing was cut back when the windows were installed, so water leaks through the gap between the window and the building paper. The issue is under the surface so it was hard to track down until we took off the trim surrounding the window. In our case the fix was to remove the trim then cut out stucco if needed until we reached the existing building paper, then tick Moiststop under the building paper and over the window flanges. This fixed the issue.

I’m not familiar with wood siding as a water proofing system, so things may be different for you. If it relies on a moisture barrier that’s under the siding, the leak could be coming from that. I’d start by removing the trim to see if you can see issues with the waterproofing under there. If you can’t, you could cut back the siding further until you can fit the PVC window flanges in such a way that you can properly water proof it, then re trim the window and you’re good to go.

Not sure if that helps, but we drove ourselves crazy trying figure out why our windows were leaking.

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Newtiresaretheworst t1_j9p5v4v wrote

Generally you can custom order windows for Renovations. You give them the total outside dimensions for the brick mold and they build the window to that size. You also tell them the custom jamb depth. I would assume you can have a 60mm depth built. I would call window guys and ask these questions and get a price.

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9qsiyv wrote

Custom jamb depth is really expensive I found out, I think I’ll order without a jamb and use wood to trim it out

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knauff13 t1_j9pqpya wrote

Can you tear out the old trim and the window so you can address the leak, reinstall trim that fits the same footprint, then install a window inside the trim?

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kidMSP t1_j9r5sdc wrote

Don’t get a PVC window. They’re mostly junk, poorly designed to sell units at the expense of engineering for wicking moisture. Spend money on a good aluminum clad window. You’ll replace the window once, not very eight years. (Source: I’m a residential architect with 20+ years of specifying windows in a cold and wet climate.)

Also, sounds like what you’re looking for is a replacement/insert style window, where the exterior trim is typically not disturbed to avoid siding replacement/feathering and repainting. This can be a good option, although you will lose a bit of the window glazing size due to the insert frame being attached to the existing opening once the existing window is removed. The problem with inserts though is that while less disruptive to the exterior trim/siding, it doesn’t solve the main problem with cheap windows and construction…namely, the window flashing is bad and not installed properly. No matter what you put in there, you run the risk of being held to the original flashing install for moisture penetration.

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BxTart t1_j9ofi42 wrote

Hire a professiona & let them sort it out. The premium is worth not agonizing over the details & fear of getting it wrong. They will also have options for your window that you might really want.

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9ohwk4 wrote

I'm a carpenter by trade and I've had others look at the problem as well but cost estimates are 4 times higher then if I would do the job. Most difficult problem is the thickness of the wall. Usually the walls I work on are 2x6's but this wall is only 6cm think so not a play.

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gladiwokeupthismorn t1_j9opdkj wrote

How is an exterior wall only 6cm thick? That’s bonkers.

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FlexZone2019 t1_j9ostd9 wrote

That’s just a trailer, not a real house. Walls are paper thin.

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meusiclver t1_j9pf1nz wrote

As someone who grew up in a trailer I wish you had said that is a trailer, not a "house" so the walls are very thin. Your use of just and "not a real house" hurt past me feelings

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knauff13 t1_j9prbs6 wrote

Some trailers are really nice. Some houses are really awful. Don't take it to heart, my guy.

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WhiskerTwitch t1_j9qw8cc wrote

If they'd said "not a real home" then sure...but they're using the name of a particular type of structure so the words are accurate.

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meusiclver t1_j9qzjj7 wrote

The "just" can be used to imply inferior, derogatory, less than, or a way to diminish others feelings. "Why are you excited, it's just a song?" "Don't worry, she's just a girl". In both examples it is a song or a girl, but the just changes the tone and meaning of the sentence. If the sentence was, It's a trailer, not a house, so the walls are thinner, that is a different tone than it's just a trailer not a real house. The use of real implies that which is not real is a knock off or inferior as well.

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WhiskerTwitch t1_j9rkbcb wrote

I understand that you have some personal sensitivities to people discussing trailers that is outside the realm of discussing the details of structures, but please remember that this is a thread about a structure with very narrow walls and how to deal with changing a window in said structure. No one here was trying to hurt you or demean you in any way.

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meusiclver t1_j9rmhak wrote

Incorrect, I have no personal sensitivities discussing trailers. Thin walls, trailers, and solutions can be discussed thoughtfully. I don't believe the op of this thread was being intentionally hurtful to anyone, especially me. In fact, assuming positive intent is why I wanted to speak up about how the comment could be perceived, especially since the original OP is working on a trailer.

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FlexZone2019 t1_j9tcp45 wrote

Stop reading too much into each word. I don't mean to offend anyone, but I also don't live my life weighting every word to make sure no one is offended. In this discussion, not a real house is an accurate statement.

Sorry this strikes a cord with you but people don't measure each and every statement on the off chance that someone, somewhere, might be offended.

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MrsDerpson31B t1_j9q6h2g wrote

I'm sorry you're dealing with that, most window places are an absolute ripoff. This should cost less than $500 all in--materials and labor.

Try calling up a building materials store that sells windows and ask them for a recommendation for an installer for their windows--better chance to talk to someone that knows what they're doing.

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9qqjvd wrote

1 ‘pro’ did not want to take the job. Other Carpenter asks almost 3000 euro’s for 2 windows. Material costs are only 700 so that’s worth doing it myself

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MrsDerpson31B t1_j9r0fko wrote

Ouch, I hear stuff like that all the time though. Fucking vultures. My partner and I have a window/door install company, and we have people buy their windows directly from the manufacturer per our measurements and then pay us for the install after it's done. We make more per window than any of those companies will ever pay installers, and the people that hire us save like 40% of what they would've paid those scammers. It's bananas, sometimes we have to convince people that we're not scammers because they don't understand how we can be that much lower than "the industry standard".

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egus t1_j9osr56 wrote

Surely you mean 6 inches thick

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9qrul6 wrote

I wish… that would be easy

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egus t1_j9qta6e wrote

So are you building it out on the inside or outside? Because it seems like you will have to already go up to 2x4s to support whatever window you put back in there.

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9qvgmt wrote

Why would I need to go up to 2x4’s? The old window held up fine and redoing the whole wall with 2x4’s doesn’t sound like a fun job

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egus t1_j9qvwih wrote

Is it a shed? If it's a house I would want more r value.

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GoldVader t1_j9pp5of wrote

I would just install the window inside the frame, and them trim round with some PVC corner trim, which I think you can get in up to 60mm, so it would easily cover the missing parts of the siding.

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braytag t1_j9q2pv8 wrote

There you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbEMx_2huWc&t=1268s

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MrsDerpson31B t1_j9q4mny wrote

Order a replacement window-they don't have any flange on them and can be made to size. Rent or borrow a trim brake--then some white aluminum trim coil to cover the gap and make a sill angle. You don't have to have wood all the way around, just behind the screwholes.

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AnotherCatgirl t1_j9q9zaq wrote

while replacing your window, I highly reccomend the Double Double! The insulation is much better while being inexpensive.

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Present-Substance-82 OP t1_j9qrdhw wrote

Hahaha Nice, the only problem is that the whole trailer has just 6cm thick walls. So I’m afraid I don’t have space for double windows and I think that the rest of the trailers leaks more heat than 2 windows

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randomn49er t1_j9r2od2 wrote

I have always cut back the siding 3.5" and installed vinyl windows with the flange. Seal it up with blueskin and positive laps. Trim around window and caulk to finish.

I usually am able to get building paper around the perimiter and wrap that inside the opening an inch or 2. Then the blueskin on the sill. Then install the window and l bluesking over the flange on the sides and then the top so end up with positive laps.

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asavage1491 t1_j9ru1pf wrote

Buy new window. Remove trim. Remove old window. Flash. Install new window. Finish flashing. Reinstall trim. Caulk and paint.

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